Wednesday, February 17, 2010
When Austin arrived we were all studying for the test which turned out to be open book followed by web research. Never enough time to get all the info needed.
More knots with ancillary ropes: Prusik, Kleimheist, Auto Block, Bachman and hearing, not necessarily taking in, why to use a particular knot in a given situation. All to allow the instructor belayer and rappeler to attend to rescue.
Austin demos and then we pair up, everyone needing to be the victim and the rescuer, though since I'm not taking the rock climbing course for certification, others need the experience more. But Aaron is my victim and he hangs in harness after climbing our class wall while I figure out how to transfer his weight from my harness to the anchor, then block the load, attach a prusik and a cordelette in such a way so that I can put my foot in a loop and alternately raise the leg loop and the prusik so that I can ascend the rope and get to Aaron. Besides boredom, Aaron's circulation was probably getting cut off from the harness and hanging there for an extended time is uncomfortable. (Austin told us about needing to rescue a guy who was kneeling on a 6" inch ledge and holding on with his fingers. He had been there for 4 hours and they needed to help him unbend his legs before they could move him safely.) So, thanks to Aaron for literally hanging in while I fumbled and, in general, being willing to hang in with me.
Then it was my turn to be the victim but Aaron was much quicker on the rescue. While waiting, I hung out and felt quite comfortable in terms of height and trusting the system not to drop me. I had been climbing earlier and had made it about 3/4 of the way up before Jake belayed me down. Jen and Mike coached me on holds to grab including the blue "Smurf penis". . . one of the most substantial grips unlike some others that you need to grab with finger tips. I have little strength in my fingers.
All in all, a productive and successful two days for me even though I don't have a full handle on the systems.
Injury update: Erin's heel became aggravated by her boots on the winter trip and now it's so painful that she can't wear regular shoes until it heals. She got it checked and found out that she can't go on the mountaineering trip next week in the White Mountains. She's pretty bummed.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
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